Car Making a Clicking Noise?
Find Out What’s Wrong

A clicking noise specifically when turning on full steering lock — most obvious in car parks or when making tight turns — is the classic symptom of a worn outer CV joint. The constant velocity joint allows the driveshaft to transmit power at an angle. When the grease-filled boot tears, water and dirt enter the joint causing rapid wear. A torn CV boot should be replaced immediately before the joint itself fails.

Drop links connect the anti-roll bar to the suspension struts. They contain ball joints that wear over time — producing a knocking or clicking noise over bumps and uneven road surfaces. The noise is typically heard from under the front of the car at low speeds and is one of the most common MOT advisories on higher mileage vehicles. Replacement is relatively inexpensive.

A single loud click when turning the ignition key — with the engine failing to crank — indicates the starter motor solenoid is engaging but the motor itself is not turning. This is usually caused by a flat or failing battery that cannot supply enough current to spin the starter. Rapid clicking (multiple clicks) confirms insufficient battery voltage.

A ticking noise from the top of the engine — particularly noticeable on cold start and often reducing as the engine warms up — indicates valve clearance issues or oil pressure problems reaching the valve train. This is common on high-mileage engines and those with infrequent oil changes. Regular oil changes with the correct specification prevent this.

Most brake pads have a metal wear indicator that produces a squealing or clicking noise when the friction material is nearly exhausted. The noise typically occurs when the brakes are first applied and may reduce once the pads warm up. This is an intentional warning system — the pads need replacing immediately before the metal backing plate contacts the disc.